Wave Hydrodynamics and Physical Oceanography

This module is aimed at introducing the student to wave hydrodynamics and geophysical flows. It covers the basic concepts of the conservation of mass and momentum to the solution of the small amplitude waves together with its engineering properties such as particle kinematics, pressure fields, energy propagation, shoaling, refraction and diffraction. Some non-linear properties derivable from the linear theory such as mass transport, momentum flux and the radiation stress concept, would also be covered along with an introduction into non-linear waves. The module also introduces the superposition principle and the concept of the wave spectrum. Generation of wind waves in deep water and their statistical properties using crossing and spectral analyses for short term and long term statistics which would be useful in design wave selection would be introduced. There will also be a review of the dominant forces in the ocean, i.e. Gravity, Coriolis and friction, and some of the resulting phenomena including tides, Ekman currents, coastal upwelling and downwelling and storm surges.

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